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Domaine Dujac - Clos St Denis 2004 Grand Cru

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Producer
Domaine Dujac
Condition
perfect
Voorraad
1

Beschikbaarheid: In voorraad

€ 235,00
OF

Domaine Dujac - Clos St Denis 2004 Grand Cru

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  • Domaine Dujac - Clos St Denis 2004 Grand Cru
  • Domaine Dujac - Clos St Denis 2004 Grand Cru
  • Domaine Dujac - Clos St Denis 2004 Grand Cru

One bottle of Dujac Clos Saint Denis 2004 Grand Cru, just entering its drinking window

Tasting note:

"Appearance: Bright and clear, medium (+) garnet with paler rims and legs
Nose: Clean, medium (+) intensity and developing aromas of raspberry, plum, earth, strawberry, prune, savory, mushroom, chocolate and oak. 
Palate: Dry, medium acidity with medium (-) tannin of ripe and silky texture. Medium alcohol with medium body, showing medium (+) intensity flavors of cranberry, plum, strawberry, oak, cocoa, earth and mushroom. Long length.
Conclusion: Very good quality Burgundy Grand Cru with highly complex and intense nose and palate. The wine is smooth and well-balanced, with the juiciness and acidity matching well, showing finesse and elegant harmony. Exceptional long length is another key attribute making this wine highly enjoyable. Ready to drink now but has potential for ageing for another 4-6 years."
94 points Cellartracker


Domaine Dujac:

The core of what is today Domaine Dujac, was the Domaine Marcel Graillet in Morey St.Denis. Marcel Graillet was a vigneron in Morey, working either behind a horse or on a tractor in the 1960s. It was not a large domaine, covering about 4.5 hectares, but it included vines in such prime locations as Clos de la Roche, Clos St.Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Combottes. It had been an even larger domaine, but had sold its monopoly Morey 1er Clos de la Bussière to Domaine Georges Roumier in 1959. Where there is one sale, there may perhaps be others…

Louis Seysses was the owner and president of a biscuit factory, but away from the day-job he also had a keen interest in fine dining and, of-course, the appropriate wines as accompaniment – he introduced his son Jacques to such important matters whilst Jacques was still very young. Later Jacques would work a couple of vintages with Gérard Potel at Domaine Pousse d’Or in Volnay (his father Louis already had some financial interest in that domaine) and despite having experienced working as a banker in both New York and Paris, he found himself being further drawn to the Côte d’Or. Inevitably, and with the backing of his father Louis, Jacques set out looking for a domaine he could call his own – Domaine Marcel Graillet perfectly fit the bill and towards the end of 1967 a deal was done – Jacques had his foothold in burgundy, but it still wasn’t a full-time rôle; in the 1960s, 4.5 hectares was not enough to support some-one – even if it had a lot of grand cru!

The first year for Jacques, 1968, was a tough one. Not only were his winemaking facilities underpowered (Graillet had sold everything in bulk to négoce), but because Graillet had no client base, he would have to build one from scratch. There was also the not inconsiderable matter of Jacques’ shift away from chemicals and herbicides – radical indeed in those years. In the end he sold off the whole vintage to the négoce – but better times were just around the corner.

By the start of the 1969 vintage there were an additional 0.7 hectares of vines in Echézeaux and 0.30 hectares from Bonnes-Mares to harvest, and Jacques had largely managed to update the winemaking facilities – apparently there was insufficient time to insulate the new constructions so the cold winter meant that the wines evolved at a glacial pace – but it was a very good vintage. Clearly a market had to be found, but Seysses père came up trumps with his many restaurant contacts – still today, sales to restaurants are a significant market for the domaine. If the 69 vintage had been a technical success for the new domaine, the 1970 vintage put them on the road to commercial success when the US importer Frederick Wildman came calling; first he tasted, then he wanted to buy everything! Jacques offered him half…

Vines:

The Seysses family have chosen to live and work on their own lands. The area of vines they manage is today just over 15 hectares, the most recent jump coming in 2005 when, as part of a consortium, they added approximately 3 hectares of well-sited vines from Domaine Thomas-Moillard. The new Bonnes-Mares vines are on terres blanches (white soil) versus their original parcel which is rooted on darker (terres rouges) soil.

 
Vineyard Holding (ha)
Bourgogne Blanc 0.19
Morey Saint Denis Blanc 0.65
Morey Saint Denis 1er Les Monts Luisants 0.60
Morey Saint Denis 2.92
Chambolle Musigny 0.64
Morey Saint Denis 1er 0.79
Chambolle Musigny 1er Les Gruenchers 0.32
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Les Combottes 1.15
Vosne Romanée 1er Les Beaux Monts 0.73
Vosne Romanée 1er Aux Malconsorts 1.57
Charmes Chambertin 0.70
Clos Saint Denis 1.29
Clos de la Roche 1.95
Echézeaux 0.69
Bonnes Mares 0.58
Chambertin 0.29
Romanée Saint Vivant 0.16

These 15 hectares are tractor hoed, grass is allowed to grow to keep the topsoil firm, and a balance of insects are not just tolerated, but encouraged as a natural form of pest control.

Two-thirds of the vines in 2007 and 100% in 2008 would be classed as being managed in an organic way – certification will begin in 2010. ‘‘We are biodynamic, but I try not to make too much of it – we will certainly never be putting our organic status on the bottles. It’s just about good winemaking,” Jacques is quoted as saying, ‘‘In the end it’s not about what we do, it’s about the soils and plots of Burgundy. Great wine was made long before science and technology were introduced to winemaking.”

In the vineyards much work has been done finding the right clones for consistent yields of smaller berries and bunches. The target is six bunches per vine which should come out at about 35 hl/ha – their 60-year-old pre-clone vines in premier cru Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers produce small healthy berries and bunches so for some time were used as a mother vineyard for regular sélection massale. The Morey St.Denis blanc comes from vines planted after the frosts of 1985 sited between the Seysses house and the RN74.








Bonnes Mares

The vineyard lies at 270 - 300 metres above sea level and consists of two quite different types of soil. Above a diagonal line which runs from the top at the Morey end to the bottom at the southern end lies a while marl, rich in fossilized oysters: terres blanches. This makes up most of the climat. Below it the soil is red-brown colour; heavier and with more clay: terres rouges. The upper slopes, as elsewhere, contain very little earth and are largely broken up limestone rock. At the bottom the depth can be as much as 70 cms deep.

This leads to a difference in the wines. At the northern end – mainly terres rouges - the wines tend to be bigger, more vigorous, muscular, more masculine: denser and more closed-in, even a little four square.

The terres blanches produces a more civilised wine. 'More spiritual', says Christophe Roumier. Like others he will make them separately and then blend the two together. The resulting wine is greater than the sum of the parts.

In the best hands, like his, we have a wine which not only has the power and the dimension, but also the elegance and depth of great Burgundy. Silk and grace: no. That is Musigny. But volume, velvet and vigour. Bonnes Mares can be very fine indeed.


Producent Domaine Dujac
Jaar 2004
Appellation Nee
Climat -
Flesgrootte 0,75 L
Aantal flessen 1
Conditie perfect
Waardering Nee